The Sanctuary of Our Lady of Ghisallo
The Sanctuary of Madonna del Ghisallo, universal Patroness of cyclists, is the spiritual point of reference for cycling enthusiasts worldwide.
A unique place, guardian of stories, emotions, and devotions related to cycling. Here, among memorabilia and memories, lives the soul of a sport made of effort, passion, and legend. In 1949, with a papal bull by Pius XII, Madonna del Ghisallo was proclaimed Patroness of Cyclists, strengthening the bond between the hill and cyclists around the world. Champions, enthusiasts, and devotees donate trophies, memorabilia like ex-votos, and dedications, honoring cycling, its people, and its epic stories.
Since 1967, the Madonna del Ghisallo Sports Group has been preserving and promoting the Sanctuary of the Madonna del Ghisallo, the Patron Saint of Cyclists. Through events and ceremonies, it keeps the bond between the Sanctuary and the world of cycling alive, safeguarding historical memorabilia and the memories of unforgettable champions, both past and present.
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La Storia
The Ghisallo Hill
The Sanctuary of Our Lady of Ghisallo stands on a hill of the same name in Magreglio, along the Vallassina road from Erba to Bellagio, thanks to popular devotion.
The Vallassina, between the Como and Lecco branches of Lake Como, offers fascinating landscapes, with clusters of houses emerging from the greenery among the irregular mountains.
Chestnut forests and pastures were main sources of sustenance, with the Lambro river originating from these mountains and joining the Po.
From Canzo, one would arrive at Magreglio, with the small Church of Madonna del Ghisallo offering a spectacular view of a branch of Lake Como, the Grigne, the Legnone, and Engadin. Beyond the sources of the Lambro, lay the “Pietra Luna” (Moon Stone), an erratic boulder, and from the peak of San Primo, one could see the entire Lario.
The dialectal name “Magrej” might derive from “Macrilium,” indicating a less fertile place. The Archbishop of Milan in 1570 assigned support to the Parish, noting its mountainous and barren nature.
The Origins
In Italy, for centuries, it has been a common custom to place sacred signs on hills, paths, and in picturesque places to protect inhabitants and travelers. In this region, numerous shrines and chapels testify to a solid Christian faith, thanks also to the work of Saint Miro (Canzo, 1336-1381).
Tradition has it that the sacred image in the Ghisallo Sanctuary was found years ago in the woods, offering safety in what was then a dangerous territory. A certain Count Ghisallo, threatened by brigands during a hunting trip, turned to the Madonna of the Icon he had encountered shortly before, thus saving his life. From that moment, the effigy was called and venerated as the Madonna del Ghisallo. <br> The first certain historical evidence of the Sanctuary dates back to July 1623, when the inhabitants of Magreglio obtained permission to celebrate Holy Mass in the Chapel dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary, which they had rebuilt. Subsequently, in 1660, the priest G.B. Bonanome established a legacy for the Sanctuary Masses, and in 1681, a three-arched portico enriched the church.
From 1706 onwards, thanks to the possibility of regularly participating in religious functions and its enchanting location, the small Oratory became a reference point and an increasingly frequented pilgrimage site. Small transformations and retouches gave life to the house of Mary we know today. <br> In the sanctuary, we find Mary at the altar, nurturing the Child Jesus in an image by an anonymous 16th-century painter. This work emanates serenity and trust.
Mary’s affectionate face seems to scrutinize the souls of visitors, offering comfort. The Child, with his hand raised in blessing, promises to be an understanding brother in joys and sorrows.
This sanctuary is not a museum, but the dwelling of a loving Mother. Looking into Mary’s eyes, you find the strength to continue your journey. In this place of prayer, Mary responds to the sincere supplications of the faithful, granting graces and healings. Here, everyone is welcomed and tenderly loved. <br> During the Second World War, despite the difficulties caused by the war itself, the Sanctuary became a refuge and a place of prayer for those seeking help from above. The community gathered to ask for the end of the war, and in 1944 they made a collective vow. Since then, every first Sunday of October, the local community gathers in procession for a solemn Mass of thanksgiving for peace. <br> As a sign of gratitude, the Madonna is crowned with a golden crown melted from jewelry donations offered by inhabitants and visitors. This small church among the mountains has become a center of Marian devotion, a place of protection and comfort for anyone who seeks it. Pilgrims stop before the reassuring image of the Madonna, a return to the maternal home for an always nostalgic, enriching, and unique encounter with their spiritual Mother
Don Ermelindo
Don Ermelindo Viganò, born in 1906 in Mediglia (Milan), played a significant role in the history of the Ghisallo Sanctuary. After various experiences as vice-rector and spiritual father, he moved to Pian Rancio during the Second World War with the Martinitt of Milan. From 1944 to 1985, he served as parish priest and rector of the Magreglio Sanctuary, transforming it into a reference point for cyclists. Don Ermelindo had a bold vision: he wanted to elevate the Sanctuary to “Sanctuary of Italian Cycling” and proclaim the Madonna “Patroness of cycling racers.”
This idea was born during the Giro di Lombardia in 1947, when Ghisallo represented the most challenging climb for cyclists of that era. The priest observed the riders making the sign of the cross in front of the Madonna’s chapel and understood the meaning of that gesture. He decided to make the Madonna the Protectress of cyclists, venerated in the Sanctuary.
Don Ermelindo involved numerous champions like Coppi, Bartali, and Baldini, organized races, and secured the passage of the Giro d’Italia and the Giro di Lombardia over Ghisallo. He promoted the monument to the cyclist and many other initiatives to preserve the historical, moral, and religious heritage of the area.
This fervent priest, in addition to promoting sports, celebrated the Day of the Sick at the Sanctuary every August, offering comfort and hope to both the sick and those seeking peace.
The Proclamation as Patroness of Cycling
In 1947, in Magreglio, the “Pro Magreglio” association organized a sporting event that concluded with a religious ceremony at the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Ghisallo. The alpine chaplain, Don Carlo Gnocchi, consecrated the Virgin on behalf of the athletes present, including some champions.
This event triggered a chain of events. In September 1947, Don Ermelindo wrote to Cardinal Schuster, requesting the proclamation of the Madonna del Ghisallo as Patroness of Italian Cycling.
The request was positively received and supported by the Pope.
In June 1948, a delegation met the Pope and obtained his official consent. The event was planned for October 13, 1948, including the arrival of the lamp offered by Italian cyclists to the Madonna as part of a cycling tour gathering. The program stipulated that on October 13, Pius XII would light and hand over the torch to the cyclists, who would depart from St. Peter’s Basilica and reach the Florence Cathedral on October 14. On October 15, they would proceed from Florence Cathedral to Bologna Cathedral, on October 16 from Bologna Cathedral to Milan Cathedral, and on October 17 they would arrive at the Ghisallo Sanctuary.
n June 1948, a delegation met the Pope and obtained his official consent. The event was planned for October 13, 1948, including the arrival of the lamp offered by Italian cyclists to the Madonna as part of a cycling tour gathering.
The program stipulated that on October 13, Pius XII would light and hand over the torch to the cyclists, who would depart from St. Peter’s Basilica and reach the Florence Cathedral on October 14. On October 15, they would proceed from Florence Cathedral to Bologna Cathedral, on October 16 from Bologna Cathedral to Milan Cathedral, and on October 17 they would arrive at the Ghisallo Sanctuary.
The blessing of the torch on October 13, 1948, by Pius XII in Castel Gandolfo was a significant moment. The votive lamp, created by the sculptor Carmelo Cappello, is 1.40 meters high and placed on a bronze stele. Around the lamp, four historical depictions of Italian cycling are sculpted.
The Square
The square in front of the Sanctuary offers a panoramic view of Lake Como and the surrounding mountains, with the Grigne in the foreground and the snow-capped peaks of Engadin in the distance. In 1973, a monument dedicated to cyclists was erected next to the Sanctuary. Made of bronze, weighing 4 quintals (400 kg), it was blessed on July 15, 1973. It represents the struggle between victory and defeat, with the gesture of a winner crossing the finish line raising his arm and another exhausted rider. An inscription by Bruno Raschi states that the bicycle is an instrument of practice and exaltation in life.
In front of the church, marble columns commemorate important figures linked to the Sanctuary, such as Emilio Colombo, Fausto Coppi, Don Ermelindo, Gino Bartali, and Alfredo Binda. In 2011, a stele was added in memory of Alfredo Binda, known for his faith and contribution to cycling. In 2015, a stele was erected in honor of Don Luigi Farina, rector of the Sanctuary for twenty years and confessor of cyclists. Near the monument to cyclists, there is a memorial stone dedicated to Vincenzo Torriani.
In 1979, a historic event was celebrated: the twinning between the Sanctuaries of Madonna del Ghisallo and the Black Madonna of Czestochowa. This event was marked by a religious ceremony held on September 22 at the Polish church and a private audience with Pope John Paul II on September 26. During this last occasion, two parchments containing the seal and signature of Pope Wojtyla were handed over to formalize the twinning. One copy in Polish was sent to the rector of Czestochowa, Father Joseph Frank, while the other, written in Italian, remained in the hands of the rector of Madonna del Ghisallo, Don Ermelindo Viganò. The latter was presented to the public during the closing celebration held the following morning.
Although many years have passed since this historic event, the constant flow of pilgrims and tourists demonstrates how alive and significant this experience of faith still is. It is hoped that this uniqueness will continue to inspire and touch the hearts of those who visit this special place in the future. The Sanctuary offers an oasis of serenity and peace, with a breathtaking natural backdrop ranging from the blue and green of the sky and lake to enchanting winter scenes. Inside the Sanctuary, young and old alike remain fascinated and moved by its beauty and spirituality.
The Relay
A relay of cyclists, including Gino Bartali, Fausto Coppi, Adolfo Leoni, Vito Ortelli, Mario Ghella, and Guido Messina, departed on October 13 from Milan Cathedral and arrived at Ghisallo four days later, carrying the torch. This lamp, constantly lit before the Madonna, symbolizes the devotion of cyclists and commemorates the fallen.
The parish magazine of Magreglio, “Fiaccola sul Colle” (Torch on the Hill), narrates the event as a solemn day for the Ghisallo Sanctuary, marking the beginning of a new history where Italian cycling and the Sanctuary intertwine. The Madonna seemed to await her new proteges with a smile, and the church was adorned with stages, altars, loudspeakers, and flowers. The community mobilized with religious functions, Masses, and music.
At 10:30 AM, the relay arrived with the flame, led by Gino Bartali and Fausto Coppi, followed by other cyclists. They carried the Lamp with joy and devotion, reading an act of consecration of the cyclists to the Patroness. This symbolic gesture underlines the importance of the Madonna del Ghisallo as Patroness of Italian cyclists, welcomed with gratitude by the community.
In 1949, Pius XII declared the Madonna del Ghisallo “Patroness of Cyclists” through a papal brief. The document recognizes the flame he lit the previous year, a symbol of Marian devotion in the hearts of cyclists. At the request of the Italian Velocipedist Union, and in agreement with Cardinal Schuster of Milan, the Madonna del Ghisallo was elevated to the principal Heavenly Patroness of Italian Cyclists and, subsequently, of international cycling with the same title.
Devotion and Affection
Initially, many believed that only devout athletes like Gino Bartali honored the Madonna del Ghisallo as their protectress. They were mistaken, because the first to believe in the Madonna del Ghisallo as protector were precisely the champions who commended themselves to Her in the most dramatic moments of their careers.
Their numerous ex-voto relics that adorn the Sanctuary confirm this. Don Ermelindo, a keen observer who saw them return to the feet of the Madonna, was sure that this small seed of devotion would bear fruit. His conviction was that the return itself was already an act of faith and devotion: “Young people come to pray because they are inspired by champions, the elderly turn to the Madonna because they want to continue cycling for as long as possible.”
Inside the Sanctuary, a small space houses an incalculable number of ex-votos. Champions like Coppi, Bartali, and Magni donated their victorious bicycles to the Madonna, and others, like Eddy Merckx, Gianni Motta, Felice Gimondi, Francesco Moser, Maurizio Fondriest, and Fabio Casartelli, followed their example. Testimonies of faith also include the Bersaglieri bicycle from World War I, that of Alfonsina Strada, the first woman in the Giro d’Italia in 1924, and of Evelina Bianchetti, who died in a road accident. Initially, these bicycles were on the ground, but when Magni’s bike saddle disappeared, Don Ermelindo decided to hang them on the walls already covered with ex-votos. <br> The jerseys of champions like Binda, Bartali, Coppi, Gimondi, Moser, and many others were also displayed as a sign of devotion. Jacques Goddet, known as the “Patron” of the Tour de France, had donated a yellow jersey in his name. The news of the Madonna del Ghisallo as Patroness of cyclists attracted cyclists and athletes from all over Europe, as evidenced by the tombstones and certificates on the Sanctuary walls.
The lamps from regional committees, flags, photographs, posters, and other forms of devotion invite visitors to offer a thought and a prayer to the Madonna. On the left wall, two tombstones commemorate cyclists who died during races, highlighting the sacrifice of their young lives. Don Ermelindo observed with consolation that many cyclists of various categories, young and old, Italian and foreign, visit the Sanctuary not only to pilgrimage to their Patroness but also to find comfort and inspiration in the wonderful panorama of the Lombard Prealps, facing the Grigne and the lakes. In this place, they seek not only physical rest for tired limbs but also the moral strength to face life’s challenges and disappointments.